Previous Resolve 12.5 Timeline and Performance Questions Next My Quicktime ProRes on Windows Issue Solution Questions Question about Articulating Magic Arms June 29, 201613 comments1,010 views1 min read 13 comments Watch LaterRemove Cinema Mode looking for other mounting options How do you guys mount your magic arms to your tripod? The two arms show in this video: Aputure a10 Articulating Magic Arm Pearstone Friction or “Magic” Arm QR plate for monitor Share this:Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window)Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window)Click to share on Google+ (Opens in new window) Related Facebook Twitter Reddit Pinterest Email You may also like Video Questions Basement Shoot Part 2: How Big of a Fake Wall Do I Need to Build? 615 views1 min read Video Questions Never Done This Before – Might Be Impossible 2,030 views1 min read Video Questions Can Sony’s Drive Speed and Tracking Sensitivity be used for Stills? 139 views1 min read 13 comments I use the 3/8-16 mount on the side of the Manfrotto 502 head and have the same problem. I usually try to position the weight of the monitor on the clockwise side of the mount so that the weight is tightening the connection rather than loosening it. It’s not always possible though. Walimex made an anti twist lock for friction arms, but I think it was designed specifically for their camera cages. It would be awesome to have a more universal version. Hi Deve, wanted also to ask what are the best small locks for monitors like you used, I saw some on ebay but don’t know the quality of them. How strong the hold. Thanks Hi Dave, Can you advise the manufacturer of the quick release clamp you use are using for connecting the Shogun to the arm, please ? I read all the posts but have not seen any reference to it. Maybe I just missed that information. You could secure the arm to the rod by fitting a grub screw to the rod and use some locktite on the grub screw. If you put a flat on the thread on the arm that would be better and give a seat for the grub screw. Any chance of you doing a video on Atomos HDR implementation ? Hi Dave, If you are attaching the arm to a standard 15mm rod and having had a further look at a rod there will not be enough metal for a grub screw to obtain a solid fit. Other way would be to use a woodruff key held in place by a 15mm rod clamp. That would work however it could be awkward if you constantly remove the arm. Sorry here it is, QR plate for monitor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291654573716?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Hi Dave, Thanks for the information. Just placed my order ! Have you got any further with the articulating arm issue ? John John, Yes someone showed me a good product to try, I will make a video about it if it works. Hi Dave – great question! I’ve had my fair share of stress with friction arms too. After a few years of hassle, I haven’t come up with a 100% surefire solution (although the anti-twist plate above looks interesting) but what I have found is that with careful positioning, you can avoid the dreaded falling monitor. Firstly, the length of the arm is an issue. Obviously, it works like a lever, so the longer the arm, the less pressure is needed to turn it and therefore the torque cause by the monitor is amplified by the lever’s length (not sure why – ask Issac Newton!). So, first step is to minimize the length of the arm to reduce the amount of torque. I try and position the arm to get the two ends as close to each other as possible which helps. Of course, that’s not always possible given the size of some monitors which brings me to the second part: The arm only loosens when turning in ONE direction so if you position the monitor a little bit forward of the mounting point (or backwards, depending on which side of the tripod you’ve mounted it) then the weight of the monitor will TIGHTEN the screw. Therefore, if it does ‘loosen’ and start to fall, it will be tightening itself as it falls and thus come to a stop and not ‘drop’. Seems simple now but took me ages to realize this! Sorry for the long ramble but I hope this helps. @Marcos thanks for the tips I will give that a try! I have noticed the same “weak link” that you identified. I mount my friction arms on the top of the camera which requires as cage on my Panasonic GH3. My ENG cameras all have top mounting screws. I’m having this same issue as well and in the market to buy an arm for my Ninja Flame. So you’re saying the shorter the arm as in a 7″ vs. 11″, the 7″ is not going to have this problem as much? The best solution I’ve found is one of these NATO rail mount kits along with a solid cage. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/898565-REG/Wooden_Camera_wc_157100_UVF_MOUNT_v2.html Not cheap but 100% reliable. Otherwise, if using a screw-in articulating arm then IMO the above comments about placement of weight and consideration of torque are the best approach.